After the condensation of Zero Hour, Yang Li’s first prêt-a-porter collection under his eponomous guise, the young London-based fashion designer aims to express a fission of uniformed and conjoined structures, that of de rigeur and non-descript in terms of utilitarian clothing.
‘After Hour’, his entitled second collection appears to have coolly liquified with greater dimensions in proportions and technical attributes. Engaged with luminary Italian factories to produce his double cloth wools, Li’s own sociology of the deep-noir fabric textures (using black PMS62X) he has ultilised is by one of combining military referenced livery with an enriched blend of sartorial tailoring. American writer Marshall Berman who wrote ‘All That Is Solid Melts Into Air’ published in 1982 can characterise this contemporary tailoring that Li constantly revolves around. The definition of modernism within fashion’s iconography visually defines something nouveau riche. Berman however writes, “But it is a paradoxical unity, a unity of disunity: it pours us all into a maelstrom of perpetual disintegration and renewal, of struggle and contradiction, of ambiguity and anguish.”
The short film produced by Dean Mayo Davis with Scott Trindle for the previous collection contains extracts of anarchy, chaotic uncertainty and military empowerment. Li draws from this flawed existence of modernity and has founded a chemistry of double cloths that fit both men and women without a segregated approach to patterns. The seamless technical splicing of shoulder and waist pocketing, the placement of darts to create apparitions of chevrons and pleats – the semblance of these outerwear silhouettes is as formidable as they are gallant.
What is considered ‘feminine’ is fictitious to Li. The structured tailoring is to demonstrate a new sensory pulse to fashion and that is by the enveloped function and fabric Li has chosen. The London based designer has already established retail patronages with two London based stores in LN-CC and Hostem and Blake in Chicago, Illinois.
Under the creative directorship of John Skelton, his buying team at LN-CC explains, “What really stood out for us about Yang’s work is his minimalist aesthetic but strong focus on a clean well-cut shape and interesting fabric mixes which are all woven in Italy; such as lycra and wool, lycra and viscose and polyamide elastane. Also his unusual details like the fluid fin at the back of the garments gives them an aerodynamic feel that is in keeping with his focus on the movement and feel of the garment when it is worn. Yang has successfully combined sportswear detailing and shapes with luxurious fabrications and a bold palette to create a strong aesthetic.”
Yang Li continues on a quest to establish his eponymous presence and whose strong business and fashion acumen also cemented by having worked at Antwerp based atelier of Raf Simons. The Beijing born, Australian raised designer is on a steady discourse with a future echoed by LN-CC. “What’s going to be very interesting is the development of his customer base and how he can move the collection on whilst keeping within his handwriting. Thats the difficult balance for all designers. We’re confident that he will be able to develop the brand and the collection in the right way if he stays independently focused on what he is doing and the commerciality and finance doesn’t take over the output. Again, this is the difficulties that face all young designers. Only time will tell.”
Yang Li – www.yangli.eu
LN-CC – www.ln-cc.com
