Photography by Will Davidson
The barren and dark landscape is associated by the geographical locality of Eastern Europe. And why is it that most who travel there such as Transylvania in Romania converse by saying it has a romanticised dark beauty? The run-down, derelict and demoralised and rummaged surroundings concur with the result of a war-torn history. New York based designer Robert Geller has stormed through the financial dark times and although this was not his initial conceptual cue his new collection for Spring/Summer 2009 embodies more of a personal celebration, that of his marriage.
His personal trip to Eastern Europe translated into a grey and monochromatic palette of linens, wool and leather. A breath of finely sharp masculine tailoring of dark washed denim pants, a black single breasted jacket and a linen striped jacket with cropped pants and unbuttoned cardigan provided an elongated yet slim silhouette. His cleverly cut wool cardigans, dark tactile waist coats in grey were slightly rebellious but still enhanced by a perfected and meticulous dinner blazer jacket. The grey and cream white t-shirting gave an inner loose structure with a symmetrical exterior texture, shown through his bold use of vertical. stripes. The gradient shading on the narrow slim pants in plum and charcoal grey were as a huge focal point as to his blue leather jacket and black striped shoulder jacket.
Perhaps some of the smaller detailed motifs such as the flowers and top hats could perhaps be a subtle remark as with Ann Demeulemeester’s direction for her Winter 2008 collection but nevertheless, Robert has certainly grown into a well-developed designer of his own accord. Some of the dark and fine washes is as a reminiscence of his German background which could also refer to the military film, ‘The Great Escape’. Robert has ultilised his visual eye of urban patterning which provided him with the natural sources of spatial spaces, abandonment buildings, shapes, surfaces and layers of history embedded by a war-torn historical locality and which has traced back to his designed collection. This glowering dark perception is as sharply tailored and aesthetically good. We look forward to the release of the collection and to his new line of jewelery and sunglasses range.