Yves Saint Laurent, Men A/W 2008/2009 - w/ ShowStudio

Stefano Pilati has opened the hearts and minds of all fashion enthusiasts. Charismatically, as a designer with Italian heritage he has essentially brought a deeper and direct flow of romance since his appointment as lead Creative Director of the Yves Saint Laurent collections. But he isn’t an old gun, one that should automatically fit in a mature mould to then design clothes out of touch for younger generations. He has sought to marry a collaboration with other designers from different creative fields, opening up a sense of new interaction and versaliity. For the AW 2008 collection for men, he directed a video installation close to eight minutes with directors Chris Sweeney and Sarah Chatfield; a collection presentation to seduce an embracing connection with the audience and strongly identifying YSL’s growing menswear market.

With a fresh mind and the power of youth on his side, he sought out to architecturally perfect the new season for womenswear. Audacious and with a powerful sense of feminine prowess, its allure was befitting in a range of key garment pieces. A fine net textured facade was set in a number of black dresses which sought to embody the voluminous trousers and an extended Japanese Kimono-like shoulder jacket. Translucent men’s top buttoned shirting was further reinforced by a richly textured golden brown drawstring jacket and billowing matched pants. A dark navy waist coat transformed itself into a working dress. This produced a picture moment of confidence structured by Stefano and outwardly enhanced the v-cut folds.

Complete pantsuiting was beautiful and sensual - slightly folded at bottom with cropped fold jacket and waist trousers with balance and proportion. Although architecture naturally pertains acute origins, Stefano provided rounded shouldering and overall the tailoring was luxuriously smooth. This was a collection that was well orchestrated and his propositions was a smooth melody.

Stefano as the head designer of YSL wants us to feel and understand the pragmatics and interactive emotion of the clothes and in the words of Massimo Vignelli, design should be meaningfully universal.

Nothing can be easily conversed of Ann’s talents and inward ability in her designed collections. Not as Belgian austere as previous, her new collection interjected pastel orange, deep vermilion and a mixed orange of yellow and magenta. Structured men’s tailoring and an outward set of cuts and edges of inner shirting followed the jersey cotton tucked shirting which looked scrunched and set as her key dresses.

Other collections

Tags: Ann Demeulemeester, Paris Fashion Week, Spring 2009, Stefano Pilati, Veronique Branquinho, YSL, Yves Saint Laurent

This entry was posted on Saturday, October 4th, 2008 at 3:17 pm and is filed under Mode. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.