Australian designer Gary Bigeni (pictured). Photography by Stefan Gossati

Australian designer Gary Bigeni lost someone dear to him and the pain and mourning was something in which he felt in his last Autumn Winter collection. That’s why he individually dedicated singular pieces (volumised and elongated sleeved tops, sleeveless vests in merino wool or jersey dresses that draped elegantly at the hem and back) to someone he felt close to and could rejuvenate his soft and languid tailoring for which has become regarded for. His show invitation for this year printed on uncoated paper were diamond graphite textures and his name affixed in the centre. Turning back was a matte grey summary with the show entitled, ‘Awaken Identity’. The high extensions of the x-height serif typography and its cursive boldness suggested that the following and accompanying collection wasn’t as so sheer and supple. An apparition of shadows must mean it evoked a new sharp sensation in Gary’s ability to design women’s clothes.

There were directional hues which were amplified and articulately draped with twisted slip-ons and shoulder focused proportions heightened the scalable wooden pegged shoes. This was Gary’s immediately layered oeuvre that for the comically, childish even dressed designer introduced a tiered dimension. Colours in soft grey marle, virginie white, silk ash grey and blue lake exaggerated the forms of camisole silk dresses, scooped v-neck tunics and a taupe shirt buttoned dress. Each of what he had offered had a metabolic and undulated gathered consistency which swirled in a fastidious accord. The colour of unstructured fabrics Gary ultilised were kind and gentle to his woman’s figure but also not forgetting that his precise tailoring also came from not just the front but also the back. The revealing of the draped alchemy and how that was hinged together was an engaging and masterful skill that considered dressmaking as a consummated whole.