The Dawn - Autumn/Winter 2009
The discouse of womenswear has been nothing short of astonishing and extremely beautiful. Its changing metamorphosis continues to play a big part in the construction of menswear. We have gone through the period of modernity to the rise of power-edged shoulders that were very hardlined. The desire for women to be dressed more comfortably and naturally has influenced many designers today, taking on a sense of architecture in developing the key pieces for women including the dress and pant. Establishing feminine sensuality was more literal taking the form of sequin, luxurious shimmering silks but is slightly more abstract now, as the balancing act of severity and austerity is difficult to construct within a collection - as such the Jil Sander narrow pants extremely cut. Ann Demeulemeester spoke to Sarah Mower previously in retelling Mary Prijot, her tutor who also was the founder of the Fashion Department at the Royal Academy of Antwerp for her love only of Chanel. It wasn’t only an affection of traditionalism but a reflection of wanting that certain purity in designing womenswear, one without over-embellishment or heightened sexuality.
Melbourne womenswear designer Jade Sarita Arnott has approached and focused on her own voyage of ideas that naturally respond to the pure softness and dynamism of hew new collection titled, ‘The Dawn’. She has not only reinforced the identity of Arnsdorf by using soft jersey cotton and pure silk but has also introduced extended shawls. The draping is structured lightly in the sculptured and broad lapel collar lengths in the wool cashmere tie coat. Overwhelming pleasant, the sheer and flattering cut dinner blouse with a deepen neckline and buttoned tie waist pant elevates sophistication along with the criss-cross sandals. The collection presents a comtemporary understanding of how we can define feminity in fluid fabrics being both modest and hidden yet subtle. This is also developed in the beautifully tailored dinner jacket which exists and is defined organically.
Jade converses by speaking about her new collection:
‘The Arnsdorf Autumn Winter 09 collection continues the label’s focus on the relationship between the garment and its wearer, with an emphasis on versatility. My interest lies in designing garments with the experience of the wearer in mind. Extensive research has gone into the cutting techniques, construction and garment details which work to flatter the body. I also like the idea of garments that people can keep forever, pieces that take on new meaning as they age.
‘The Dawn’ collection draws from feelings of renewal and new beginnings and the resulting designs explore themes of adaptation, possibility and transformation.’
With a draped structured embodiment in the shiny tan jumpsuit, the use of calm and cooled colour of tan, denim blue, light pale pink and black in the extended dawn dress and jersey lapel dress in white, not only has Jade strongly sparkled positivity and gradual metamorphosis in her sensitivity as a designer, she has further touched on to express feminine sensuality need not be overstated or indeed a severity to the fit of a dress. Rather the emphasis on fabrics especially of lapel and silk and the notion of natural dress is a result of a strong confidence and modest vanity.
Arnsdorf is currently available online at Our Spot, Bloodorange and Capital-L in Sydney, Alice Euphemia and Fat in Melbourne.
All Photography by Rene Vaile
Tags: Arnsdorf, Autumn/Winter 2009, Jade Sarita Arnott, The Dawn, Womenswear